The field of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for all. Among the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding surpasses grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one as much as see what all of the hoopla was with this drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has a great deal selecting it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very reasonable price. Handling is nice as well after you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts an extremely number of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for people who like to tinker, which means that this car should grow along with you as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts at the base for your front and rear diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these can be used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually quite a few left empty. They could be used to control chassis flex, although not with all the stock top deck; an optional one must be obtained. The layout is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily accessible and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Other than a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll as the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious quantity of steering throw they already have. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as near to the edges of the chassis as possible. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I wanted an effective servo to take care of the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, where front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow the use of a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 some beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, nevertheless i do remember a method I used a little while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the outer using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the ultimate result … and yes it was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
Around The TRACK
For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to accomplish an image shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and get some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is very amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Including the CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a bit funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the correct direction. This can be, partly, on account of the awesome handling of the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform just that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to modify the angle in the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a little as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is ideal for just that. I did so must be just a little creative with all the install in the system on account of limited space about the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for quite a while, it will go on a little becoming accustomed to understanding that a car losing grip and sliding is the proper way throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at lower than a couple of inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, along with the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is good, but if you feel like you require more of something anything there’s a good amount of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the automobile together with the kit setup plus it was only a matter of a battery pack or two before I found myself swinging the rear across the hairpins, throughout the carousel and back and forth with the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery about the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.
There’s very little you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I did so, however, have an issue with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a little bit drag brake. I kept with it, trying to overcome the issue with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it in to actually give it a look. During the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it appears in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.